another day as they flood together like a rising tide with strong waves, and the water is rushing back faster to the sea...
i realize how important it is for our family not to drown...
and where is the safest spot in the world??... as long as we don't drive...
too much action perhaps for
such a few square miles of beach and sea..
at the edge of the continent...
with billions of square miles of sea in front of you..
so, so much action in the currents to and fro...
a life is saved
a then a week later, a life could have easily been  taken by a shark surfing the same wave
as the victim of his ire...
who doesnt enjoy strange human feet
landing on his back for a little ride
and bites back with instinctive survival anger,
 then a week later
 a life is taken by our own flotation device,
a surfboard
in the unwelcome invisible froth of the surf,
 a board right into the poor lad's head..
we go into a state of numbness
and then we move on
some sooner than others...
i have had my own losses
and i go on
as this young surf board champion would want us to
enjoy the sea...
the carnival went on
and Mermaid Beach had it's weekly sunday morning handicap race...
 two laps this time past the breaks
I took the first lap a little to the right of the others to catch the rip
 I passed them easily and then found I was third in out little run thanks to my wife yellowing out 2!
while my son yelled, "Go Daddy!"
I was inspired to really take the big rip...
and then I saw open sea...
 I thought I might have it until I saw a young stud
who had the strength to swim straight out without the aid of any rips..
I wondered if i could stay close enough to him to catch a winning wave past him..
instead I thought I would go for it
and I came in 2nd>>>
happy that only a former star swimmer  beat me...
he started 3 minutes after me...

so life goes on...

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