the ultimate moment is to be in the zone of the wave...
when you are taking that wave as best as you can!!

When you are dealing with the forces of kinetic energy as best as you can....
Each day, I would like to find that wave
I swim out past the last break to find her...
I wait in the calm of the water
waiting for her to arrive
catching her just right...
trying to find the curl of the wave...
I catch her and hold my breath for as long as I can...
breathing out slowly
then taking in small breaths from the bubbles of air beneath me...
finally lifting my head as I reach out for the sand beneath me...
push up and I am on land as the ocean retreats
leaving me safely on land!!

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Please Lord, get my ass in gear so that I can focus on the future for our family!