I decided to continue on with the essay of yesterday...Or start one from scratch about the most wonderful body surf of my life today!! and the 3-4 hour experience on the beach and in the surf...really romping and playing as a child...
Now I have epiphany of the whole experience...
the height of the day was the morning from sunrise at 5:30 to 10 am...
ending with a water fight with my feisty lady and playing on the backyard like children with the water hose....almost as if we were being naughty....
I took pics like crazy before and during the magnificent star coming right out of the Pacific....
I decided instead of just looking at the sea....I would become part of it and the sea and the king tide washing the water right to the edge of our dune vegetation fence...
the waves were higher and the tide was higher than I ever saw it here ....
even since body surfing as a child...
I met one of the volunteer life guards, George, who is a lawyer/accountant...
almost as if the universe knew that I needed somebody like him as a friend and professional help....
He was a better swimmer than me and he knew exactly where the rip was to take us out past the last breaker where the water was calm...
a hard set was coming in for a few minutes and we waited for it to eventually go back out...
I followed him on rip to the beautifully big breaking waves...
He advised on where the wave is best to take...
You have to take it early by being a little further out...
so we both took it only a few feet from each other
and we cruised in on the most beautiful wave of my life..!




I figured that I would show this full moon pic ...its of course the opposite weather here in Oz!

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Please Lord, get my ass in gear so that I can focus on the future for our family!